SYDNEY ESCORTS TRAVEL GUIDE

KINGS CROSS AND DARLINGHURST          

Situated on the eastern fringe of the city, Kings Cross, known as  "The Cross", and Darlinghurst are a couple of Sydney celebrities.  Their allure is tarnished - or enhanced, perhaps - by rails of scandal and corruption.  Kings Cross, particularly, is still regarded as a hotbed of vice; both areas still bear the taint of 1920's gangland associations.  In fact, both are now cosmopolitan areas - among the most densely populated parts of Sydney, famed as much for their street life and thriving cafe culture as for their unsavoury features.  Kings Cross exudes a welcome breath of Bohemia, in spite of the sleaze of Darlinghurst Road and the flaunting of red light district.  Darlinghurst comes brilliantly into its own every March, when the flamboyant Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras parade, supported by huge crowds of spectators, makes its triumphant way along Oxford Street.

GETTING THERE
Kings Cross railway station serves the area.  Bus number 311 travels through Kings Cross and Darlinghurst, while the 324, 325 and 389 are also useful.  Buses 378, 380 and 382 travel along Oxford Street.

STREET - BY - STREET:  POTTS POINT
The substantial Victorian houses filling the streets of this old suburb are excellent examples of the 19th-century concern with architectural harmony.  New building projects were designed to enhance rather than contradict the surrounding buildings and general streetscape.  Monumental structures and fine details of moulded stuccoed parapets, cornices and friezes, even the spandrels in herringbone pattern, are all integral parts of a grand suburban plan.  (This plan included and 1831 order that  all houses cost at least £1,000).  Cool and dark verandas extend the street's green canopy of shade, leaving an impression of cool drinks enjoyed on hot summer days in fine Victorian style.

THE McELHONE STAIRS
Were preceded by a wooden ladder that linked Woolloomooloo Hill, as Kings Cross was known, to the estate for below.

THESE VILLAS
From the Georgian and Victorian eras, can be broadly labelled as Classical Revival and are fronted by leafy gardens.

VICTORIA STREET
In 1972 - 1974, residents of this historic street fought a sometimes violent battle against developers wanting to build high-rise office towers, motels and blocks of flats.

WERRINGTON
A mostly serious and streamlined building., also has flamboyant Art Deco detailing which is now subdued under brown paint.

TUSCULUM VILLA
Was just one of a number of 1830's houses subject to  "villa conditions".  All had to face Government House, be of a high monetary value and be built within three years.

ROCKWALL
A symmetrical and compact Regency villa, was built to the designs of the architect John Verge in 1830 - 1837.

CHALLIS AVENUE
Is a fine and shady complement to nearby Victoria Street.  This Romanesque group of terrace houses has an unusual facade, with arches fronting deep verandas and a grand ground floor colonnade.

DEL RIO
Is a finely detailed high-rise apartment block.  It clearly exhibits the Spanish Mission influence that filtered through from California in the first quarter of the 20th-century.

ELIZABETH BAY HOUSE
A contemporary exclaimed over the beauty of the 1830's garden:  "trees from Rio, the West Indies, the East Indies, China .... the bulbs, from the Cape are splendid".

ELIZABETH BAY
Was part of the original land grant to Alexander Macleay.  He created a botanist's paradise with ornamental ponds, quaint grottoes and promenades winding all the way down to the harbour.

EL ALAMEIN FOUNTAIN
This dandelion of a fountain in the heart of the Kings Cross district has a reputation for working so spasmodically that passers-by often murmur facetiously,  "He loves me, he loves me not".  Built in 1961, it commemorates the Australian army's role in the siege of Tobruk, Libya, and the battle of El Alamein in Egypt during World War II.  At night, when it is brilliantly lit, the fountain looks surprisingly ethereal.

VICTORIA STREET
At the Potts End, this street of 19th-century terrace houses, interspersed with a few incongruous-looking high-rise blocks, is, by inner-city standards, almost a boulevard.  This gracious street was once at the centre of a bitter conservation struggle, one which almost certainly cost a prominent heritage campaigner's life.

In the early 1970's, many residents, backed by the  "green bans" put in place by the Builders' Labourers' Federation of New South Wales, fought to prevent demolition of old buildings for high-rise development.  Juanita Nielson, publisher of a local newspaper and heiress, vigorously took up the conservation battle.  On July 4, 1975, she disappeared without a trace.  A subsequent inquest into her disappearance returned an open verdict.

As a result of the actions of the union and residents, most of Victoria Street's superb old buildings still stand.  Ironically, they are now occupied not by the low-income residents who fought to save them, but by the well-off professionals who eventually displaced them.

ELIZABETH BAY HOUSE, 7 Onslow Avenue.
Elizabeth Bay House contains the finest colonial interior on display in Australia.  It is a potent expression of how the expression of how the 1840's depression cut short the 1830's prosperous optimism.  Designed in the fashionable Greek Revival style by John Verge, it was built for Colonial Secretary Alexander Macleay, from 1835 - 1839.  The domed oval saloon with its cantilevered staircase is recognized as Verge's masterpiece.  The exterior is less satisfactory, as the intended colonnade and portico were not finished owing to a crisis in Macleay's financial affairs.  The present portico dates from 1893.  The interior is furnished to reflect Macleay's occupancy from 1839 - 1845, and is based on inventories drawn up in 1845 for the transfer of the house to Macleay's son, William Sharp.  He took the house in return for payment of his father's debts, leading to a rift never to be resolved.

Macleay's original 22-hectare  (54-acre) land grant was sub-divided for flats and villas from the 1880's to 1927.  In the 1940's, the house itself was divided into 15 flats.  In 1942, the artist Donald Friend, while standing on the balcony of his flat - the former morning room - saw the ferry Kuttabul hit by a torpedo from a Japanese midget submarine.  The house was restored and opened as a museum in 1977.
Open:  10am - 4:30pm Tuesday - Sunday.
Closed:  Good Friday, December 25.
Tel:  93 - 56 - 30 - 22.

BEARE PARK, Ithaca Road.
Originally a part of the Macleay Estate, Beare Park is now encircled by a jumble of apartment blocks.  A refuge from hectic Kings Cross, it is one of only a handful of parks serving a densely populated area.  In the shape of a natural amphitheatre, the park puts Elizabeth Bay on glorious view.

The family home of JC Williamson, a famous theatrical entrepreneur who came to Australia from America in the 1870's, formerly stood at the eastern extremity of the park.

SYDNEY JEWISH MUSEUM, 148 Darlinghurst Road.
Sixteen Jewish convicts were on the First Fleet and many more were to be transported before the end of the convict era.  As with other convicts, most would endure and some would thrive, seizing all the opportunities the colony had to offer for those wishing to make something of themselves.

The Sydney Jewish Museum relates stories of Australian Jewry with the context of the Holocaust.  The ground floor display explores present-day Jewish traditions and culture within Australia.  Ascending the stairs to mezzanine levels 1 - 6, the visitor passes through chronological and thematic exhibitions which unravel the history of the Holocaust.

From Hitler's rise to power and Kristallnacht, through the evacuation of the ghettos and the Final Solution, to the ultimate liberation of the infamous death camps and Nuremberg Trials, the harrowing events are graphically documented.  This horrific period is recalled using photographs and relics, some exhumed from mass graves, s well as audiovisual exhibits and oral testimonies.

Holocaust survivors act as volunteer guides.  Their presence, bearing witness to the recorded events, lends considerable power and moving authenticity to the exhibits.
Open:  10am - 4pm Sunday - Thursday, 10am - 2pm Friday.
Closed:  Saturday, Jewish holidays.
Tel:  93 - 60 - 79 - 99.

OLD GAOL, DARLINGHURST, Corner of Burton and Forbes Streets.
Originally known as the Woolloomooloo Stockade and later as Darlinghurst Gaol, this complex is now part the National Art School.  It was constructed over a 20-year period from 1822.

Surrounded by walls almost 7m  (23ft) high, the cell blocks radiate from a central round-house.  The jail is built of stone quarried on the site by convicts which was then chiselled by them into blocks.

No fewer than 67 people were executed here between 1841 and 1908.  Perhaps the most notorious hangman was Alexander  "The Strangler"  Green, after whom Green Park, outside the jail, is thought to have been named.  Green lived near the park until public hostility forced him to live in relative safety inside the jail.

Some of Australia's most noted artists, including Frank Hodgkinson, Jon Molvig and William Dobell, trained or taught at the art school which was established here in 1921.
Open:  9am - 5pm Monday - Friday.
Closed:  Public holidays.
Tel:  93 - 39 - 87 - 44.

DARLINGHURST COURT, Forbes Street.
Abutting the grim old jail, to which it is connected by underground passages, and facing tawdry Taylors Square, this unlikely gem of Greek Revival architecture was begun in 1835 by Colonial Architect Mortimer Lewis.  He was only responsible for the central block of the main building with its splendid six-columned Doric portico with fine Greek embellishments.  The balancing side wings were not added until the 1880's.

The court house is still used by the state's Supreme Court mainly for criminal cases, and these are open to the public.
Open:  February - December 10am - 4pm Monday - Friday.
Closed:  Mid - December - January, public holidays.
Tel:  93 - 68 - 29 - 47

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